Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
